# What Documents Do You Need to Buy a Used Car?

Published 23 October 2026, updated 25 October 2026. CarCheckUp guide: https://carcheckup.co.uk/blog/what-documents-do-you-need-to-buy-a-used-car/

> The V5C, MOT and service history, finance settlement letter, receipt and new keeper slip: what to check and keep when you buy a used car in the UK.

To buy a used car in the UK you need to see the V5C log book and check it matches the seller and the car, look at the MOT history online, ask for the service history and any finance settlement letter, and come away with a written receipt and the new keeper slip. The documents prove who can sell the car, what it has been through and that it is now yours.

This guide goes through each document in the order you will meet them: before the viewing, at the viewing, when you pay and after you drive away.

## Before the viewing: what you can check with just the registration

You don't need any paperwork from the seller to start. With the number plate you can see the official records for free:

- **MOT history:** every test since the car was three years old (four in Northern Ireland), with the mileage at each test, failures and advisories. A [free MOT history check](https://carcheckup.co.uk/check-mot-history) shows them in one place.
- **Tax and MOT status:** whether the car is taxed, SORN or untaxed, and when the MOT runs out. See the [DVLA vehicle check](https://carcheckup.co.uk/dvla-check).
- **The basic DVLA details:** make, colour, engine size, fuel and date of first registration. If any of these don't match the advert, ask why before you travel.

What the registration alone won't show you is outstanding finance, an insurance write-off or a police stolen marker. Those come from a full history check, and they matter more than any document the seller hands you, because a V5C does not prove the car is free of finance.

## The V5C log book

The V5C (vehicle registration certificate) is the most important document at the viewing. It shows the registered keeper, which is not always the legal owner, and the car's official details.

### What to check on the V5C

- **The name and address:** they should match the seller, and you should view the car at that address. Be wary of a seller who wants to meet in a car park or at a motorway services.
- **The registration, VIN and engine number:** compare them with the car. The VIN is usually at the base of the windscreen and on a plate in the door frame. Our guide on [where to find the VIN and check it matches the V5C](https://carcheckup.co.uk/blog/where-to-find-the-vin-on-a-car-and-check-it-matches-the-v5c/) shows the usual places.
- **The colour and details:** a colour that doesn't match can mean a respray after an accident, or a car with a false identity.
- **The paper itself:** a genuine V5C has a DVL watermark when you hold it up to the light. Don't accept a photocopy or a photo of it.
- **The issue date:** a full history check lists when log books were issued. If the seller's V5C is older than the latest one on record, it may not be the current document.

### No V5C? Be very careful

"The log book is in the post" or "my ex-partner has it" are common lines in used car scams. A seller can apply for a replacement V5C from DVLA, so there is rarely a good reason to sell without one. Without it you can't easily prove the car's details, and you will have to apply for a log book yourself. If you still want the car, wait until the seller has the replacement.

## Service history and receipts

A service history shows the car has been looked after and supports the mileage. It can be a stamped book, printed invoices or a digital record held by the manufacturer or a dealer.

- Check that the dates and mileages run in order and match the MOT history readings.
- Look for the big jobs on cars that need them: a cambelt (timing belt) change at the interval the manufacturer sets, brakes, clutch and tyres.
- Phone a garage named in the book if a stamp looks doubtful. Garages can usually confirm a visit.
- Ask about missing years. A gap doesn't always mean neglect, but it should be reflected in the price.

For more on reading the records, see [how to check a car's service history](https://carcheckup.co.uk/blog/how-to-check-a-cars-service-history-in-the-uk/).

## The MOT certificate

You don't need a paper MOT certificate. MOT results are recorded online, and the record is what counts. A printed certificate is useful only to compare with the online history: if the two disagree, trust the official record and ask the seller to explain.

## Finance: the settlement letter

If the seller still owes money on the car, the finance company may own it until the agreement is paid off. Under a hire purchase or PCP agreement, the seller can't legally sell the car without settling it.

- Ask the seller directly whether there is finance on the car.
- If there is, ask for a settlement letter from the finance company and agree how it will be paid off, ideally by paying the finance company directly and getting written confirmation that the agreement is closed.
- Run an [outstanding finance check](https://carcheckup.co.uk/outstanding-finance-check) on the day you buy, because finance can be added at any time.

Private buyers have some protection under the Hire Purchase Act 1964 if they buy a car in good faith without knowing about the finance, but proving that takes time and stress. Checking first is far easier.

## Other things to collect at the handover

| Item | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| All keys, including the spare | Replacement keys can be expensive, and a missing spare can affect insurance or resale. |
| Locking wheel nut key | Without it a garage can't remove the wheels to change a tyre. |
| Owner's handbook and service book | Service intervals, tyre pressures and warning lights. |
| Warranty documents (dealer sales) | What is covered, for how long and who to contact. |
| Recent repair invoices | Proof of work the seller says has been done. |
| Charging cables (electric and plug-in hybrid cars) | Often expensive to replace and easy to forget. |

## The receipt

Always get a written receipt, from a dealer or a private seller. It is your proof of the deal if anything goes wrong. Make two copies, both signed, and include:

- The date, the price and how you paid.
- The seller's and buyer's names and addresses.
- The make, model, registration, VIN and mileage.
- Anything agreed, such as work the seller will do or items included.

Pay by bank transfer where you can, so there is a record. Avoid carrying large amounts of cash, and never pay a deposit for a car you haven't seen.

## After you pay: the new keeper slip, tax and insurance

### The V5C/2 new keeper slip

When you buy from a private seller, the seller tells DVLA about the sale (online is quickest) and gives you the green new keeper slip from the V5C. Keep it safe: it has the reference number you need to tax the car before your new log book arrives. DVLA then sends the new V5C in your name. If it hasn't arrived after a few weeks, contact DVLA. Dealers usually tell DVLA for you. Our guide on [telling DVLA you've bought or sold a vehicle](https://carcheckup.co.uk/blog/how-to-tell-dvla-youve-sold-transferred-or-bought-a-vehicle/) covers the steps.

### Tax doesn't transfer

Any road tax left on the car is cancelled when the keeper changes, and the seller gets a refund. You must tax the car before you drive it away, using the new keeper slip reference. You can do it online at [>GOV.UK vehicle tax](https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax) in a few minutes.

### Insurance before you drive

You need your own insurance from the moment you drive the car. The seller's insurance doesn't cover you, and driving on another person's policy is usually not allowed. Arrange cover before you collect the car.

## Buying from a dealer: the extra paperwork

A dealer should give you an invoice, any warranty terms and the vehicle's details in writing. When you buy from a business you have rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015: the car must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described, and you have 30 days to reject a faulty car for a refund. Buying privately gives you far fewer rights, which is why the checks above matter more. See [your rights when buying from a dealer or a private seller](https://carcheckup.co.uk/blog/buying-from-a-dealer-or-a-private-seller-your-rights/) for the detail, and [>Citizens Advice](https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/) if something goes wrong.

## A quick document checklist

1. Check the MOT history, tax status and DVLA details from the registration.
2. Run a full history check for finance, write-offs and stolen markers.
3. See the original V5C and check the name, address, VIN and engine number.
4. Go through the service history and receipts.
5. Get a settlement letter if there is finance.
6. Collect keys, the locking wheel nut key, handbook and cables.
7. Sign two copies of a receipt.
8. Keep the new keeper slip, tax the car and insure it before you drive.

## FAQs

**Can I buy a car without a V5C?** You can, but it is risky. The V5C is how you check the seller and the car's identity. Ask the seller to apply for a replacement first, or walk away if the story doesn't add up.

**Does the V5C prove the seller owns the car?** No. It shows the registered keeper. A car can be on finance or even stolen and still come with a V5C, so check finance and stolen records separately.

**Do I need the old MOT certificates?** No. MOT results are held online, so you can see the full history from the registration.

**What should a private sale receipt include?** The date, price, both names and addresses, the car's registration, VIN and mileage, and anything agreed. Both of you sign two copies.

**When will I get the new log book?** DVLA posts it once the seller has reported the sale. If it hasn't arrived after a few weeks, contact DVLA, and keep the new keeper slip until it does.